I‘m looking to buy some used dana axles for my 1990 Chevy k1500 (44 in the front 60 in the rear or 60 all the way around?) I was also wondering what type of appropriate questions I should ask regarding the axles as well as what to look for when inspecting them. What should I ask for that typically comes with axles, i.e parts and etc.? I believe I want the gearing to be 4.10. Any other ideal recommendations for that specific year that would be appreciated. A good website would be useful, but many seem to be for jeeps and other vehicles. Thanks
Just run a 14-Bolt Full Floater from a 3/4 or 1-ton GM truck/van/suv. It is comparable to the Sterling 10.25 (used in single wheel apps for Ford), or any other 1-ton rear axle for that matter. The 14B is almost a direct bolt in. It has a longer 3rd member, but since your going to get a few inches of lift by doing the solid axle swap, you may not need to cut down your drive shaft (just depends on lift height). You will need a conversion u-joint to mate your current drive shaft to the 14BFF yoke. I can't remember the part # at this time, but it can be picked up at most auto parts stores! For the front, I would run the D60 unless you get a smokin buy on a D44. It really depends on how hard you plan on wheeling the truck. A D44 will last just fine on 38 or less with mild power for most drivers. Pull the front axle from a Ford older than a 1998 (they went to a goofy lug spacing with the body style change). You could also use a CAD axle from a Dodge ('94 and newer) if the price is right, but then you have all the 4-link stuff to either cut off, or try to use it and run links versus leafs. Let your tire size determine your axle ratio. Of course it would be great to get the 4.10 ratio and hopefully be able to stay with it. If your gonna run over 35, don't even worry about the axle ratio, because a lower ratio should be on you purchase list! When purchasing an axle, inspect the gears (pull the cover), inspect the carrier, any blown seals, any cracks in the tubing where it meets the differential or at the knuckle, large amounts of rust, any rust or slop. Unless the axle is pulled from a recently wrecked daily driver, I would be rebuilding the axles; all new seals, balljoints, ect. Try to buy the axle with all of the steering linkage, the spindles, brake calipers and rotors, ect. This will make your SAS a whole lot easier, even if you need to purchase new parts.
Its a Dana 30 up front. discover out if the previous proprietor upgraded the axle shafts - if no longer, get some alloy united states of america shafts for. The D30 ring kit isn't lots smaller than a D44, however the low spline count extensive type shafts are a weak point. as long as you do no longer positioned a locker in it it somewhat is going to be pleased with gentle off street driving, yet i might def. start up saving up for some new shafts, breakage is def. conceivable with that setup. they'll run you $500 to $six hundred for a pair on line.
Lots of opinions on this one, and few are truly wrong. Rear axles are easy. Dana 60, Ford 9, are as light as you would want to go. they both have strengths and weaknesses, but will hold tires and power. The 9 is lighter, but the housings can bend under hard abuse. The 60 is stronger in most ways, but is heavier. the next step would be swapping in a 14 bolt. These lose ground clearance at the pumpkin, and are extra heavy, but are nigh unbreakable, and are cheaper than either other option. Remember that there are two types of 14 bolts, but the one you want is the full floater, with the removable pinion. Fronts are really the hard part. With some creativity you can set up a 14 bolt or a 9 steer axle. Ford axles are the easiest and best choice for swaps because they do not suffere from the weaknesses that dodge axles do. There are alot of dana 50 axles out there that are basicly a combination of a 44 center and 60 outers. Thing is the 44 is not really strong enough to sit under the weight of a full size V-8 truck. Some of the coolest setiups I know of are the spidertrax axles from spidertrax and super 14 from portal tech. The super 14 is pretty awesome and should be absolutely bulletproof. All of it depends on your level of build. If you want bullet proof, try super 14 centers, spidertrax 60 outers. If you want driving on the road, and camping on the weekends, then try a set of axles from a late 90s 3/4 ton superduty. Plenty of them rusting in the junkyard because of their modular motors.
