the priming chamber/bullet seater is stuck in the body i cant get it outalso if i do get it out i've never re-loaded i cant figure out how to measure the powder its just one size measure how do i do all the different powder charges?i pretty much know nothing about it i did read the instructions though
Been there done that. Ok i have had the primer seater rod get stuck too. You need to take a small hack saw cut the top of the shell casing at an angle then use a pair of pliers and un peel the shell from the rod. NO biggie it happens. Ok your using the lee loader so it comes with the dipper however your limited to what the load chart is for your specific bullet. You can not change the load at all unless you go out and get a full set of dippers and or a powder scale. Sounds like your just getting into reloading. the lee loader is a great little tool that works very well. something that can help. When you go to put in another primer put a light coat of baby powder on the rod. you might even want to go over the rod with a piece of emery cloth any nick in it can cause a case to get stuck on it. Now the two biggest things i would recommend you purchase is. Lee's modern reloading second edition book. There is a lot more data that can help you out. Good part is they show specific loads for using dippers. Also lee sells a full set of dippers with a chart that will show you how many grains each dipper can hold per different types of powders
well okorder /... it comes with a sliding chart that shows which dipper to use with different powders to get the grain weight you want. its very important to get a loading manual before you do any experimenting. if you take your time think a while before you actually do anything things will go a lot better you will eventually have an expensive new hobby a whole room full of equipment components.
You can order dippers in any size from Lee. The decapper is part of the sizer, not the seater. Can you describe a little more thoroughly what piece is stuck where, and why you want to remove it? If you've got a case stuck in the decapper/sizer and it pulled out of the shell holder, you might have to disassemble die and knock the case out with a steel drive pin. Re measuring, I like to use a little rack of test tubes and dip 20 charges at a time. Then I dump them on to aforementioned el cheapo powder scale (they're all accurate enough but I use an RCBS that cost me 20 bucks) and check to make sure they're in the ballpark before dumping them into the cartridge. It's a lot quicker than trickling all 20 because sometimes you get lucky. Don't try to do this by using your cartridges as temporary storage. The flash hole can hide a substantial amount of powder.
Stop! Step away from the reloading equipment and put your hands in your pocket!! I am a reloading instructor. I teach a 8hr Basic Class and a 9hr Advanced Class. I understand your pain. I learned from a book, on my own, 30+ years ago how to reload. It's a small wonder that I have all my fingers and never blew up a gun. As a new reloader - you very much need to see out someone who can teach you, mentor you, or you can take a class from. The NRA now has a Reloading Instructor official trainers and many clubs and ranges will hold classes every other month. You need to find someone who can locally help you out - someone you can call during the day and bounce questions off. Powder measures come in several flavors. The worst - require special 'disks' for a charge - depending on what you want, you put in the disk according to a chart and it is suspose to work with the powder on the chart. This is not good! The better way is to get an adjustable powder measure and use a scale - the scale allows you to accuratly adjust the measure so it is close, and you use a powder trickler to add the final few grains of powder. The best - is the electronic ones like the RCBS Chargemaster combo - it measures and dispenses the powder for you......... not only is this 100 times safer, it allows you to make single weighted rounds 3x faster! Send me an email if you need help. Be sure to include the make and model of your Lee stuff. Kevin
