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Question:

can bad egr valve cause overheating?

Can a dirty or faulty EGR valve cause overheating. My 2001 PT Cruiser is overheating but only on very hot days and when the air conditioning is on. Back flushed and pressure tested the radiator, changed the thermometer, fluid was low but doesn't seem to be loosing fluid since refilled. Check engine light came on and indicated poor air flow through the EGR valve. Is it worth replacing prior to pulling the radiator to check that for the problem with overheating? Mechanic I trust doesn't think the EGR can cause overheating.

Answer:

I don't know the answer either but my 2006 Pontiac Torrent has been overheating when I drive long distance or when I come to a stop with the engine running. When the vehicle is moving the temperature goes back down. Today I just saw that the metal pipe leading from the EGR sensor to the engine was bent to the point it may be closed. I'm not saying that is the problem but I'm suspisious. Prior to noticing the bent pipe, I flushed the engine and changed the thermostat but still the same problem.
This people above do not know much about EGR's which one of the main purposes is to lower combustion temperatures by introducing exhaust fumes into the intake. So yes it can add to the overheating problem. source GM tech
No it won't. A attempt to work out if the egr is working outcomes interior the different. while the egr is activated (at idle) the rpm's will drop extensively by way of an over wealthy blend. The overheat is being led to by ability of a few thing else. For the over warmth- verify your coolant point - verify belt tensions - radiator blockage (inner and exterior) - water pump impeller may be loose. may be time for a timing belt besides.
Pt Cruiser Egr Valve
A bad EGR valve can cause a lot of headaches, poor running, bad idle, stalling, etc. One of the few things that it can't cause is overheating. Completely different systems. (side note, make sure that the problem isn't with your EGR sensor, and not the valve). For overheating, here is the diagnostic path: 1: Check for leaks, and that fluid levels are OK. 2: Check for bubbling in the radiator / resivour (while running the engine). Bubbles, especially at high RPM's can indicate a blown head gasket. 3: Check that the thermostat opens. To do this, start a cold car, and place you hand on the upper radiator hose. With gloves on, squeeze it. Wait for a few minutes until the engine warms up. The upper radiator hose will get hot and firm. This indicates that the thermostat is working and the water pump is working. 4: Keep the engine running, and make sure that the cooling fan starts up. Keep your fingers away from the fan. 5: If you can SAFELY do it, reach to the front of the radiator and carefully feel for cold spots on the radiator. If there are cold spots, that means that the radiator is plugged, and needs to be swapped. Good luck.

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