Having trouble soldering copper pipe?
It probably won't lower your mpg too much. (if any) It might even increase your mpg, because an after market exhaust system will reduce back pressure on the engine and make it healthier. If it's a V6, then I wouldn't worry about that irritating tuner sound from a performance exhaust system. I will probably just make a nice V6 growl, and won't be too obnoxious.
Clean the end of the pipe with 'wet and dry' paper or emery cloth. Clean it by going around the pipe, not longitudinally. (that's important). Wipe the cleaned area with a smearing of flux. Apply heat just before the cleaned area, NOT on it otherwise you will quickly cause oxidation. Your torch should be about 60% of it's max. Too hot and the copper will oxidise, too cool and it won't be hot enough to melt the solder. Ensure that you are using the correct melting point solder for the job. Hold the solder in one hand and apply it to the tube, playing the flame on and off and round the pipe. You need to get the heat to just the point where the solder begins to run. As soon as the solder runs, wipe it round with a mole skin cloth. (I use a leather garden glove, it works a treat, I can wipe it round and clean without getting burned leaving the end just silvered. When you have mastered that then you can move on to joining the pipes together with an end solder socket or, if you prefer, a yorkshire soldered socket. If the copper pipe changes color to a light reddish brown then you have applied too much heat. Likewise if the solder runs off like water. You need to get the heat to where the solder is between running off and being plastic.
it is going to in elementary terms waste gas in case you automobile continuously giving it intense gas for the reason which you like the sound. no longer all people is inspired via a Honda with a pipe. in many situations in the event that they have headers swifter carbon fiber hood roll cage and an v6 with a 5 velocity They get extra seems than a 4door with a pipe ever will
it is going to in elementary terms waste gas in case you automobile continuously giving it intense gas for the reason which you like the sound. no longer all people is inspired via a Honda with a pipe. in many situations in the event that they have headers swifter carbon fiber hood roll cage and an v6 with a 5 velocity They get extra seems than a 4door with a pipe ever will
It probably won't lower your mpg too much. (if any) It might even increase your mpg, because an after market exhaust system will reduce back pressure on the engine and make it healthier. If it's a V6, then I wouldn't worry about that irritating tuner sound from a performance exhaust system. I will probably just make a nice V6 growl, and won't be too obnoxious.
Clean the end of the pipe with 'wet and dry' paper or emery cloth. Clean it by going around the pipe, not longitudinally. (that's important). Wipe the cleaned area with a smearing of flux. Apply heat just before the cleaned area, NOT on it otherwise you will quickly cause oxidation. Your torch should be about 60% of it's max. Too hot and the copper will oxidise, too cool and it won't be hot enough to melt the solder. Ensure that you are using the correct melting point solder for the job. Hold the solder in one hand and apply it to the tube, playing the flame on and off and round the pipe. You need to get the heat to just the point where the solder begins to run. As soon as the solder runs, wipe it round with a mole skin cloth. (I use a leather garden glove, it works a treat, I can wipe it round and clean without getting burned leaving the end just silvered. When you have mastered that then you can move on to joining the pipes together with an end solder socket or, if you prefer, a yorkshire soldered socket. If the copper pipe changes color to a light reddish brown then you have applied too much heat. Likewise if the solder runs off like water. You need to get the heat to where the solder is between running off and being plastic.
As others have said, sanding the pipe with plumbers cloth is important, not just the pipe but also the inside and edges of the fitting. Flux liberally then assemble the joint. Make sure you choose a good solder, stay brite or 95/5 are both good solders for plumbing. The type of torch and fuel you use can be equally important. I like using Mapp for any plumbing up to 1 and acetylene for anything over 1 Remember a couple of rules: solder flows to the heat and solder flows where the flux goes! If you heat the joint too hot the solder will just roll off and not flow onto the copper. You can heat up the shoulder of the joint first to get it hot but before you apply the solder you should bring the heat up to the middle to top of the female fitting and the solder will flow to the heat and into the joint in a wicking action. As soon as you are done make sure you wipe the joint with a dry cloth to remove the excess flux or it will corrode the pipe and joint later and cause a leak.
As others have said, sanding the pipe with plumbers cloth is important, not just the pipe but also the inside and edges of the fitting. Flux liberally then assemble the joint. Make sure you choose a good solder, stay brite or 95/5 are both good solders for plumbing. The type of torch and fuel you use can be equally important. I like using Mapp for any plumbing up to 1 and acetylene for anything over 1 Remember a couple of rules: solder flows to the heat and solder flows where the flux goes! If you heat the joint too hot the solder will just roll off and not flow onto the copper. You can heat up the shoulder of the joint first to get it hot but before you apply the solder you should bring the heat up to the middle to top of the female fitting and the solder will flow to the heat and into the joint in a wicking action. As soon as you are done make sure you wipe the joint with a dry cloth to remove the excess flux or it will corrode the pipe and joint later and cause a leak.
