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Question:

Repairing a slight leak in threaded copper pipe to brass shower mixing valve.?

I just installed a shower mixing valve and all of the soldered connections were fine. However, there is a slight leak at each of the copper to brass threaded connections into the mixing valve. I was only able to tightend the copper fitting a certain amount in order to achieve the proper alignment of the copper to copper piping. Is there a fix without removing the entire assembly and starting from scratch?

Answer:

Although you used Teflon tape, you may not have applied it correctly. You have to apply it in the direction that the pipe will be turned. Having the pipe only half way into the fitting will cause a leak. You need to remove the mixer valve and fit the pipe into it before it is fixed to the shower wall. To make sure you do not crush the pipe when tightening, Turn the mixer valve and not the pipe. If you have to cut the pipe to remove it, you can rejoin it by using a slip coupler which will need soldering.
Although you used Teflon tape, you may not have applied it correctly. You have to apply it in the direction that the pipe will be turned. Having the pipe only half way into the fitting will cause a leak. You need to remove the mixer valve and fit the pipe into it before it is fixed to the shower wall. To make sure you do not crush the pipe when tightening, Turn the mixer valve and not the pipe. If you have to cut the pipe to remove it, you can rejoin it by using a slip coupler which will need soldering.
Use the male adapter. Solder a short piece of tube to [ 4 or 5 inches ] to the adapter first then screw into valve using tape or joint compound. Then take a damp rag and wrap around the short tube and the valve, this acts as a heat sink and won't allow those parts to get to hot. To finish just use couplings to attach to supplies the clamp the vavle to the framing. A tip is to wipe the new solder joint with a damp rag right after soldering, this cools the joint and also removes any excess flux then you won't green that green yuck. And yes, make sure to put a test on it. If testing with water, leave open at least 24 hours. Happy Swetting Dan
Use the male adapter. Solder a short piece of tube to [ 4 or 5 inches ] to the adapter first then screw into valve using tape or joint compound. Then take a damp rag and wrap around the short tube and the valve, this acts as a heat sink and won't allow those parts to get to hot. To finish just use couplings to attach to supplies the clamp the vavle to the framing. A tip is to wipe the new solder joint with a damp rag right after soldering, this cools the joint and also removes any excess flux then you won't green that green yuck. And yes, make sure to put a test on it. If testing with water, leave open at least 24 hours. Happy Swetting Dan

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