I‘m making a fake lance out of styrofoam. I need to coat the surface of the styrofoam with something that will make all those little bumps go away so when I paint it, it looks better.I just want something easy that you can buy at a craft store for under 25$. Does anyone have any recommendations on a product I could use?
OK, first off you need to SAND DOWN the bumps. Regular sand paper works just fine on Styrofoam. Get 100 grit or maybe 250 grit. Don't waste your time or materials trying to smooth out rough Styrofoam by filling it. It sands beautifully. For strength I use something called Dry-vit, it's an acrylic stucco. If you don't want to look for that (building supply) you can use bondo but you need to wear a respirator. They sell it at home depot. If you don't want to buy a respirator, try spackle.but you have to sand that too (air dries) and a lance would still be extremely breakable. If you can carefully insert a long steel rod into the sculpture that might keep it from breaking. They sell these at home depot too. My experience is that craft stores don't have much to offer sculptors. You could use a straitened hanger wire to slide into the piece if you like. Just don't go jousting anyone with it! haha It'll break,
Air or water interior the brake line could show itself as a softness on the brake lever, requiring countless pumps till now the brakes artwork. Air (and to a lesser quantity water) will compress while brake fluid, like all hydraulic fluids, does no longer compress. however the indications you describe look the alternative. in my opinion i could do away with the caliper from the fork leg, take out the pads and positioned a wood lath of their place (to provide up the pistons popping out thoroughly) and then pump out the pistons (use a G clamp to provide up one if it strikes much less stressful than the different) – look for any airborne dirt and dust or gunge on the piston factors. i think that this is your difficulty. If there is airborne dirt and dust you could sparkling the factors of the pistons (with grab and brake purifier and a rag – no abrasives) for a non everlasting answer – ideally you could desire to empty the gadget and take out the pistons and totally service the calipers – replace seals and bleed nipple, flush the gadget with methylated spirits to scrub it and enable it dry. in case you will prefer the brake fluid replaced you would be able to desire to besides have this service completed on the comparable time. additionally learn the lubrication on the grasp cylinder and lever – there could desire to be a blob of grease and it makes a good difference to the action of the lever. EDIT: btw the hot pads will take a while to mattress in, 50 magnificent miles, so isn't as useful till then – and make valuable the compound is right for the bike, don't be tempted to apply “race” compounds as you will by no ability get them warm sufficient to apply.
You most likely have air trapped in your brake lines or may not have tightened the bleeder valve well enough. Then again, what you are describing is the exact same scenario I experienced when replacing the brake calipers on my bike. I, like you, was bewildered at why my new calipers would not build hydraulic pressure. However, what I didn't realize is that it takes an insanely long time to prime the brake lines. I was priming the lines on my SV1000S for 15 minutes before they finally built pressure. I don't know if you flushed your system like I did, but it sounds most likely like air bubbles - also factor the age of your bike when considering leaks.
For the best answers, search on this site shorturl.im/axvY2 Your local hardware store should have what is called a stucco anchor. (They are also sometimes called toggle bolts.) These are similar to a molly bolt. You drill your hole in the wall, and insert the stucco anchor which then expands. Then you can put a screw, nail, or whatever into the stucco anchor and hang what you need to.
