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Question:

air in brake line, no visible leaks, pedal hard then goes down farther with use.?

1966 Cadillac, simple brake system. Brake pedal hard after bleeding, pedal travel increases gradually until on floor. Replaced leaky Rrear wheel cylinder, no improvement, replaced master cylinder and rebuilt Lrear wheel cylinder. no improvement. Getting foam out of Lfront bleeder. Replaced master cylinder twice more, rebuilt both front wheel cylinders. Hard pedal, gradually goes down, foam out of Lfront cylinder bleeder. No visible leaks anywhere, no fluid drop in reservoirs, just squishy pedal and foam from Lfront bleeder. Basically, the whole system has been replaced or rebuilt and the problem won‘t go away. Any ideas please?? thanks

Answer:

I know that its important to you that he wears his ring but honestly I don't think it safe for him to wear it at work anyway. If it did slip off you'd be upset, so go for what you'd like to get him and tell him he doesn't have to wear it while at work. Just so its safe and he is too. (mechanic working and jewelry is a dangerous combo for his hands.)
if you drop the ceramic ring it will break, actually more like shatter, go with the tungsten
shop bleeding the brakes as there could nonetheless be air interior the device, do the astounding rear first then the left rear and next do the astounding front and ultimately the drivers section wheel, additionally verify the rear brake footwear for adjustment in case you have drum brakes on the lower back, they might want adjusted up some.
Replace the bleeder screw and check for inside thread damage. Sounds like there's a leak there. You should not get ANY discharge from any of the bleeders. B
Do you have power brakes on that Caddie? If so then I'd check the booster to see if you've got good vacuum going to it. As far as the foam is concerned it sounds like you still have air in the system. Start with the right rear wheel, go to the left rear wheel, go to the right front wheel and finish up with the left front wheel. If you don't do it in that sequence then you won't get the brakes properly bled out. Also, what I like to do is gravity bleed the brakes. I open up the bleeder nipples and watch the fluid. After about 10 minutes or so the air should be out of the system. If you have a power bleeder then that is even better. Make sure you open the master cylinder when you gravity bleed the system and it will go quicker. That's about all I can tell ya. Hope this helps.

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