I apologize if i dont' have the terms exact. actually, i've already changed the lock cylinder in my door. (the lock cylinder being the thing with where the key goes in. The actual locking part is seperate)The lock cylinder is a little longer than the one originally installed (about 2 mm). I'm finding the new cylinder lock a little stiffer than the old one. I've already lubricated it all with wd40. I'm wondering if I ought to trim the shaft or rod at the end of hte lock by another 2 mm. Or should I take off one whole square? If i take off too much, i'm afraid the rod won't reach the lock housing.
Each of your sensors (reed switches on window / door frames operated by magnets on the window / door are traditional) should be arranged to *break* the circuit under alarm conditions. All these sensors are wired in series. Cutting the wire will cause the alarm to sound. Your control panel needs to contain a rechargeable battery, so that it will still work if the supply cable is cut. You need a simple logic circuit that will sound the alarm if the voltage on the input drops (meaning that one of the sensors has operated, or the wires have been cut). The control panel needs to be wired up to the sensor circuits, the outdoor alarm box and a power supply (a plug-in mains adaptor is as good as anything). Have a second rechargeable battery pack inside the outdoor alarm box. Take the charging supply to the battery via a resistor and diode. (This battery needs to be a lower voltage than the one inside the control panel, as the resistor and diode will create a voltage drop. It should also have a lower mAh rating to ensure it doesn't hog all the charging current.) Monitor the voltage upstream of this diode (feed it via a resistor into a logic gate, or the base of a transistor, depending how you built the circuit. For instance, if you build a siren with two op-amps as oscillators, one modulating the reference voltage on the other one which feeds a speaker via a transistor, you can use the charging supply to turn on a transistor which shorts out the timing capacitor in the main oscillator and cuts off the oscillation, therefore silencing it). If there is no voltage there then you need the alarm to sound as it means the wiring to the control panel has been cut.
Well for starters, the eyebrow ring is a strike against you. The nose stud is fine. For commercial print modeling, I honestly don't think you're built for that. However, if you did more of an alternative modeling, you'd be awesome for that. You'd be a great model for a photographer making artistic shots in alternative genres. You have a very pretty face, a great exotic look You could go in as is, and probably get some great shots done. Now you'd surely be a model, but its no road to fame and fortune. Its probably a lot of work, but it may be paying. And all of this hinges on how old you are. If you're over 18, a little more free thinking than the average person, and can leave your modesty at the door, you could do well at that. Commercial print modeling though is most likely not in your future. I'm sorry, that's just the way I see it. But if you are open to alternatives, you can be a model. Good Luck.
It would be really useful if you were to supply just a normal head shot that's unedited and a normal straight on full body shot with you just wearing jeans and a t-shirt. Then people might be able to help you.
