I am addicted to my hair straightenerPerhaps my mistake was using it at the highest temperature setting (450), but my formerly healthy hair is suffering from split ends and breakage-even after I just got an inch trimmed off! I am a little confused as to why it got so damaged.my straightener is one of the expensive tourmaline ones, I always use a thermal protectant spray plus now I've added in a ceramic protectant oil.I'm scared to keep straightening and have all of my hair break off but it looks god awful when I let it go natural.What should I do? My stylist recommended a deep conditioner by Rusk and the ceramic oil, but neither is making much of a differenceCan I keep straightening? The frustrating thing is that straightening was the only thing that made my hair look nice.I was finally happy with it and trying to grow it out and now all this breakageHelp!
Would go with any R-13 spray or foam for 2x4 walls, R-19 un-faced in the atticIf you have the money to do it, I would suggest a radiant barrier for you roof decking (either tech-shield, or and aluminum based paint) The radian barrier alone will drop the attic temp 20 degrees.
you can build your home with 2x4 construction instead of 2x6 when insulating with urethane foam the reduced cost in lumber will pay for the foamthey make these foam concrete forms you can assemble the basement yourself and have someone do the pour makes a well insulated basementyou may not need insulated basement in a warm climate
wellit matters on how long you've been straightening your hairif you do everyday, its going to get damged- no matter if you use protectant spray or noti wouldent use rusk, its not that greati have really thin, fine, hair so my hair starts showing off damage after about two days of straighhtening, and i also want to grow out my hairso what i do is i dont press the straightener hard on my hair, but go over it a two or three timesthen use hairsprayand try to air dry, because that is soo much healthier for your hairit will help out alotAlso be sure to get your split ends cut off once a month, maybe morecause if you dont, the split ends get larger and largerthat may be why you had to cut a inch off.
I sell insulation in the south-eastDo not go w/ an open cell foam.go closed-cellThe absolute best way would be to spray 2 inches on all exterior walls (about an R-14), this is very expensive but pays for itself within 3-5 years through you energy bill savings (if you cannot afford that route, then foam a half inch and put an R-13 batt on top of that) An R-19 in your crawl space is sufficient I would have blow wool blown in as opposed to an all batt ceiling, it's even cheaperBatts are 4 feet long, so every four feet your gonna have air flowing through the seems, as well as up each side of the batt.with blow wool the air has to travel in a zig zag all over, which slows it down quite a bitBlowing an R-30 is probably code in your area but go w/ an R-38Also, if you have a lot of knee walls (as in room over garage), you should have FSK fire-safe paper installed, then sprayed w/ a half inch as well and then covered w/ a battThose dead spaces let a good amount of energy into your home, that's why a lot of folks have a hard time keeping their room over their garage heated and cooled.
When it comes to insulation, the old saying some is good but more is better will applyThis is particularly true now with gas and electrical costs so highOne thing for sure you should do is to add additional insulation beyond the normal blown insulation in the atticI added 12 inch thick bats of fiberglass insulation over the blown insulation in the atticThis alone reduced my cieling temperature by 5 degrees in the summer time(I live on the Texas Gulf Coast.) Since you are just now building the home, you might also consider 12 inch studs on the exterior wallsand use 12 inch fiberglass insulation as well, along with the standard Styrofoam insulationHomes in Europe are all built with thick exterior walls, because the winters are cold and energy is much more expensive than in the United StatesYou might consider having the sticky foam insulation blown on the underside of the roof in the atticYou should also, have an attic fan installed that will pull fresh, cooler air into the attic in the summer time and expel the hot airAnd finally, you will want to have a programmable thermostatThis is very good if the home is not occupied during the dayYou can shift the thermostate while people are not at home and save energyAnd at night during the winter, you can cycle the heat to a lower temperature while you are sleeping under blankets, and have it cycle on just before you get upAll of these individual items will add up to serious energy savings, and you can roll the cost into the cost of the houseSince you will be paying for the improvements as part of your mortgage, the additional monthly payment in mortgage will be relatively small, and with inflations, you will be paying for it with cheaper dollars in the future.
