Home > categories > Automotive & Motorcycle > Brake Systems > Problem with my Braking System - brakes stuck on?
Question:

Problem with my Braking System - brakes stuck on?

I just replaced the master cylinder on my 1975 Vogue motorhome (M500 Chassis) because the old one was leaking. I installed the new one, adjusted the pedal freeplay, bled the brakes, and test drove the vehicle. I had and still have great pedal feel. The only problem is the brakes seem like they are being applied even when I don‘t press on the pedal. And it gets worse the farther I drive, to the point where it locks up the front brakes; the rears seem to be fine. I‘m guessing this is because the fluid is heating up and expanding and compounding the problem. I made sure there was freeplay and there is about 3/8 of an inch. A few people said my new master cylinder is bad, and a few said proportioning valve, but the proportioning valve was not a problem before. But then again, the rears seems to be ok. Any help would be greatly appreciated.And its not my emergency brake.its the trans brake type, no problem there. Problem seems to be with just front brakes locking up.

Answer:

i had the same problem on my 1967 Olds Cutlass last year the problem was the rubber flex lines were collapsing internally and would keep the pressure applied making them one way directional like a blood vessel if the brakes release when you bleed them then this is an inexpensive repair considering the age of the vehicle i would replace all the flex lines front and rear
actually one of your wheels has the caliper hung up the position the brake pads are literally stuck antagonistic to the rotor placed the front up interior the air and note in case you could turn the wheels via hand in case you could then placed the again up and verify those between the 4 received't turn via hand at the same time as doing the front make certain you position the tranny in impartial B.
You dont want too be growing a crop in potting soil. Potting soil has no nutrients what so ever. You use potting soil for flowers which is why flowers bought at the store dont last very long or are unhealthy. I suggest you buy Topsoil which usually has manure and compost mixed in with it. As for minerals I suggest you buy rock dust which is organic and re-mineralizes your soil with the 90 trace micro-nutrients, not the standard 13. I also suggest you get an organic fertilizer or compost tea which is personaly my favorite.
a few variations on the issue here. if the master cylinder is set up for 4 wheel drum, then there is a check valve for the front brakes that needs to be removed to let the fluid release. if you have over adjusted the pedal freeplay, it can have tat same effect and not let the flow of fluid to return to the master cylinder forcing the brakes to remain applied. back the adjustment off of the pedal and give that a shot.
Make sure it is composted first! If it is not, it could burn the plants. Uncomposted manure is best to use in small amounts and mixed in well with the surrounding soil. Composted manure is no worry! Otherwise, manure (composted and uncomposted) is high in nitrogen, and tomatoes especially love and need nitrogen! Make sure you till it into your soil around root level where your tomato plants will be.they'll love you for it!

Share to: